Saturday, March 27, 2010
Bodega Tour/Semana Santa Preview
This is kind of a piece-meal blog, just to warn you:
Last week for one of my classes we had a company visit to a small Pueblo on the coast of Southern Spain to a Bodega, where they are famous for their Brandy. We learned all about the company and about Brandy...then of course we got to taste the Brandy (that was over 80 years old!) and also two types of wine that they sell. The Bodega was called " La Gitana" located in San Lucar de Barramedas. The coolest part was how the man giving the tour poured the sample into your glass. I have some photos and a video to follow!
As of lately, the weather has been perfect in Sevilla, upper 60's and sunny every day! I am taking full advantage of it by exploring the parks the city has to offer. The other day I went to a "Seafood of Galicia" (northern Spain) exposition and had octopus, literally the woman had an boiled octopus sitting on a table and was cutting up the legs with scissors and putting it on a plate. You can google Pulpo a la Gallega if you want to see a photo!
This coming week is Semana Santa (Holy Week), as I'm sure many of you know, but here in Sevilla they have the best, and largest celebration of Semana Santa in the world. It lasts all week, and there is actually a program of processions, telling where and when they go through the city. It is very difficult to describe, but here goes nothing. Basically the processionals contain Nazarenos, which are people dressed in cone-hats and full robes, with only holes where their eyes are. Some processionals are silent, but others have bands that play beautiful music. The most impressive part of a processional is the "float" that is adorned with life-like figures of Jesus or Mary or other religious figures and plated in silver or gold, with candels and flowers covering every inch of the platform. The amazing part about this is that they aren't floats on wheels, but rather they are platforms that about 30 Sevillano Men go underneath and carry on their heads. They wear, what looks like to me, an Israeli headdress with some padding. It is AMAZING. The dedication these men have to practice for weeks ahead of time, carrying the float that weighs hundreds of pounds on their head. They are very coordinated in their steps and motions, it is truley an art. Several directors walk in front and back of them, as they can't see a thing, and tell them which way to go and if their speed is appropriate, etc. The common call is "Venga, Valiente," this means come on, valiently!
In Sevilla there is an enormous amount of respect for Semana Santa and for these men, called costaleros (it is considered an honor). Since I am traveling this week with Mom and Jake, I won't get to see the event, and my senora, Araceli, is obsessed and was really sad about that. So yesterday we met in el centro and she took me to see two "processional simulations." It is very expensive to particpate as a processional during Semana Santa and your platform has to have some level of antiquity, most of them are hundreds of years old. The ones I saw yesterday are ones that will eventually be in the Holy week, but as of now, are waiting. The first one we went to see, was cool, there were several Nazarenos, walking barefoot, bearing crosses or tall candels, and the float was neat. It was a silent processional. The second one we saw, Araceli informed me was much more like Semana Santa. It was beautiful. Hundreds of Nazarenos (of every age, even some 3/4 year olds) , two bands, and a beautiful, enormous float (photos to follow)The coolest part was that the people walk directly in front of the float backwards, and it is extremely crowded. This is prohibited during the actual Semana Santa, but yesterday everyone was doing it! Araceli, who has lived in Sevilla her whole life, had never experienced what we did yesterday. We walked this way for over a mile in front of the costaleros. Every once in a while, they take a break and set the float down onto its four legs. To signal to the costaleros when to pick it back up, there is a door-knocker that they knock several times. They walk it from a certain point all the way into a church. The most awe-inspiring part of this art was once they reached the church, hundreds of people everywhere, a band was playing valient music, the director was carefully guiding them to turn the float 360 degrees around. To fit through the church doorway (which was very tall) they had to get on their knees and crawl it in, stll on their heads...yes it was beautiful, and probably quite painful. So the 30 men under the float, in unision got on their knees and ever-so-carefully, inch-by-inch, moved into the church...during this time, the entire crowd was silent making signs of the cross and observing this art. I was moved. The respect the people have is magnificent, even the 13 year old kids in the crowd were silent, looking on respectufully. I tried to explain to Araceli that there I don't think people at home would ever be able to show that much respect to anything, there just isn't that deeply of a rooted tradition. Photos are to follow because it really cannot be put into words. If you are religious at all, or not, this art form deserves some attention and enormous amount of respect.
Last week for one of my classes we had a company visit to a small Pueblo on the coast of Southern Spain to a Bodega, where they are famous for their Brandy. We learned all about the company and about Brandy...then of course we got to taste the Brandy (that was over 80 years old!) and also two types of wine that they sell. The Bodega was called " La Gitana" located in San Lucar de Barramedas. The coolest part was how the man giving the tour poured the sample into your glass. I have some photos and a video to follow!
As of lately, the weather has been perfect in Sevilla, upper 60's and sunny every day! I am taking full advantage of it by exploring the parks the city has to offer. The other day I went to a "Seafood of Galicia" (northern Spain) exposition and had octopus, literally the woman had an boiled octopus sitting on a table and was cutting up the legs with scissors and putting it on a plate. You can google Pulpo a la Gallega if you want to see a photo!
This coming week is Semana Santa (Holy Week), as I'm sure many of you know, but here in Sevilla they have the best, and largest celebration of Semana Santa in the world. It lasts all week, and there is actually a program of processions, telling where and when they go through the city. It is very difficult to describe, but here goes nothing. Basically the processionals contain Nazarenos, which are people dressed in cone-hats and full robes, with only holes where their eyes are. Some processionals are silent, but others have bands that play beautiful music. The most impressive part of a processional is the "float" that is adorned with life-like figures of Jesus or Mary or other religious figures and plated in silver or gold, with candels and flowers covering every inch of the platform. The amazing part about this is that they aren't floats on wheels, but rather they are platforms that about 30 Sevillano Men go underneath and carry on their heads. They wear, what looks like to me, an Israeli headdress with some padding. It is AMAZING. The dedication these men have to practice for weeks ahead of time, carrying the float that weighs hundreds of pounds on their head. They are very coordinated in their steps and motions, it is truley an art. Several directors walk in front and back of them, as they can't see a thing, and tell them which way to go and if their speed is appropriate, etc. The common call is "Venga, Valiente," this means come on, valiently!
In Sevilla there is an enormous amount of respect for Semana Santa and for these men, called costaleros (it is considered an honor). Since I am traveling this week with Mom and Jake, I won't get to see the event, and my senora, Araceli, is obsessed and was really sad about that. So yesterday we met in el centro and she took me to see two "processional simulations." It is very expensive to particpate as a processional during Semana Santa and your platform has to have some level of antiquity, most of them are hundreds of years old. The ones I saw yesterday are ones that will eventually be in the Holy week, but as of now, are waiting. The first one we went to see, was cool, there were several Nazarenos, walking barefoot, bearing crosses or tall candels, and the float was neat. It was a silent processional. The second one we saw, Araceli informed me was much more like Semana Santa. It was beautiful. Hundreds of Nazarenos (of every age, even some 3/4 year olds) , two bands, and a beautiful, enormous float (photos to follow)The coolest part was that the people walk directly in front of the float backwards, and it is extremely crowded. This is prohibited during the actual Semana Santa, but yesterday everyone was doing it! Araceli, who has lived in Sevilla her whole life, had never experienced what we did yesterday. We walked this way for over a mile in front of the costaleros. Every once in a while, they take a break and set the float down onto its four legs. To signal to the costaleros when to pick it back up, there is a door-knocker that they knock several times. They walk it from a certain point all the way into a church. The most awe-inspiring part of this art was once they reached the church, hundreds of people everywhere, a band was playing valient music, the director was carefully guiding them to turn the float 360 degrees around. To fit through the church doorway (which was very tall) they had to get on their knees and crawl it in, stll on their heads...yes it was beautiful, and probably quite painful. So the 30 men under the float, in unision got on their knees and ever-so-carefully, inch-by-inch, moved into the church...during this time, the entire crowd was silent making signs of the cross and observing this art. I was moved. The respect the people have is magnificent, even the 13 year old kids in the crowd were silent, looking on respectufully. I tried to explain to Araceli that there I don't think people at home would ever be able to show that much respect to anything, there just isn't that deeply of a rooted tradition. Photos are to follow because it really cannot be put into words. If you are religious at all, or not, this art form deserves some attention and enormous amount of respect.
Monday, March 15, 2010
Barcelona Photos
Barcelona!
This past weekend a friend and I took a last-minute trip to Barcelona...I couldn't live in Spain without seeing it! We left Friday at noon and arrived at about 1 in Barcelona...needless to say we had a feeling it would be an adventure, we had booked a hostel room to be shared with 10 other people...strangers. Upon our arrival, my luggage was lost (great start to the adventure). Completely in Spanish I communicated with the gate-clerk to find out that my luggage was sent to Bilbao, Spain. They had it sent to my hostel, and it ended up arriving a few hours after we did! On Friday we explored the surrounding area of our hostel, which had a great location, in the heart of downtown Barcelona...we could see Gaudi Casa Mila from our window! A little background info on Antoni Gaudi: a Spanish architecht who practiced ArtNouveau style. His main monuments are located all throughout Barcelona, and are beautifully confusing and unique! Friday night we did a tapas/bar/discotech tour with the hostel that led us to a great discotech on the Mediterranean! It was very beautiful, and packed full of people! Friday night coming back to the hostel room, where the 10 other people were already sleeping was interesting to say the least. You know when you are trying to be quiet but the harder you try, the louder you are? That sums up our attempt.
After a hearty 4 hours of sleep we were up to get to see all that we could of Barcelona! We started with the Las Ramblas, the "main drag" for tourists in Barcelona. THere are weird little shops set up that sell parakeets...most of you know, I am not fond of the bird breed, but still cool to see. Also on Las Ramblas, are a TON of street performers, it is quite the spectacle, every 10 feet another interesting person trying to earn some money. Las Ramblas ends on the coast of the Mediterranean, there is a pier to walk along and as you look behind you, you see the skyling o f Barcelona and at the same time, cliffs, and mountains...very beautiful. There is the most amazing food market I have ever seen on Las Ramblas too, it is called La Boqueria. They sell everything and anything there, and it is the freshest of fresh! We saw a HUGE fish being butchered! After this we went to the Sagrada Familia; a church built by Gaudi. It was started in 1909...and is still under construction. It is one of the most confusing, strenuous to look at, pieces of architechture that I have ever encountered, but truly breathtaking. Barcelona is really a city of Architecture, you can see modern mixed with gothic, or Gaudi, or ancient structures also. Next on our list of adventures was Park Guell...also designed by Gaudi. This park is at the top of a huge hill in Barcelona...that we climbed! The views are breath-taking as is the park itself. There is a huge plaza like area that is full of street vendors, tourists, and bands! It is really cool. This was my favoite site in Barcelona. We took a much needed nap after the morning of sight-seeing and ended our day going to view the Gothic Neighborhood of Barcelona. Also very architechturally interesting. There are a lot fo cool shops around there. Since Barcelona is on the coast of the Med. we decided a seafood dinner was in order. We went to an area called Port Vell and had an authentic Catalunyan Paella...it was delish! We ended up staying up all night Saturdya because we had to catch a bus to an out-skirts airport at 3am. RyanAir, although very inexpensive, flys out of inconvenient airports most of the time. This trip was extremely short, but such an adventure and I loved every minute of it!
After a hearty 4 hours of sleep we were up to get to see all that we could of Barcelona! We started with the Las Ramblas, the "main drag" for tourists in Barcelona. THere are weird little shops set up that sell parakeets...most of you know, I am not fond of the bird breed, but still cool to see. Also on Las Ramblas, are a TON of street performers, it is quite the spectacle, every 10 feet another interesting person trying to earn some money. Las Ramblas ends on the coast of the Mediterranean, there is a pier to walk along and as you look behind you, you see the skyling o f Barcelona and at the same time, cliffs, and mountains...very beautiful. There is the most amazing food market I have ever seen on Las Ramblas too, it is called La Boqueria. They sell everything and anything there, and it is the freshest of fresh! We saw a HUGE fish being butchered! After this we went to the Sagrada Familia; a church built by Gaudi. It was started in 1909...and is still under construction. It is one of the most confusing, strenuous to look at, pieces of architechture that I have ever encountered, but truly breathtaking. Barcelona is really a city of Architecture, you can see modern mixed with gothic, or Gaudi, or ancient structures also. Next on our list of adventures was Park Guell...also designed by Gaudi. This park is at the top of a huge hill in Barcelona...that we climbed! The views are breath-taking as is the park itself. There is a huge plaza like area that is full of street vendors, tourists, and bands! It is really cool. This was my favoite site in Barcelona. We took a much needed nap after the morning of sight-seeing and ended our day going to view the Gothic Neighborhood of Barcelona. Also very architechturally interesting. There are a lot fo cool shops around there. Since Barcelona is on the coast of the Med. we decided a seafood dinner was in order. We went to an area called Port Vell and had an authentic Catalunyan Paella...it was delish! We ended up staying up all night Saturdya because we had to catch a bus to an out-skirts airport at 3am. RyanAir, although very inexpensive, flys out of inconvenient airports most of the time. This trip was extremely short, but such an adventure and I loved every minute of it!
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
J'adore Paris
This past weekend I went to Paris! It was more amazing that I could have ever imagined! I left Thursday night, with six other girls, for what was going to be a long journey. We took a six hour bus ride to Madrid, from there a 2 hour flight to Paris-Beauvais, from there a one hour bus ride to Paris, and then a metro to our hostel in Montmarte ( a neighborhood in Paris). We arrived in Paris at about 11am on Friday. An example of the loose concept of time the Spanish have; our bus to Madrid was 50mins late, so we had to run through the Madrid airport, well worth it though.
We jumped right in and explored the surrounding neighborhood of our hostel. The Sacre Cour is a Basilica set on the highest point of the city. The views were truely unbelievable and we managed to catch our first glimpse of the Eiffel tower from there! After the hike up the hill and around the Basilica, we went out for lunch to a small cafe. I had authentic onion soup, that was obviously delish! After we took a small rest in the hostel. The hostel was more like a hotel complete with towel service, maid service, and breakfast every day. Also the staff was knowledgable and helpful! I would recommend it to anyone, Le Regent Montmarte, conveniently located 20 meters from a metro stop. On Saturday night we went to dinner at a restaurant called Le Refuge Fondue. Although we had to wait 2 hours, we occupied ourselves in the surrouding shops and bars by partaking in our first bottle of Bordeaux. The restaurant is a very unique experience. It has only to two long tables lining either wall, with one side of bench seats and the other with chairs. You are seated directly next to the next customer (not uncommon at all in Paris) and to get into the side with the bench seat you have to step on the table...that alone was interesting, but we were in for a surprise! We had fantastic cheese fondue and beef fondue and the best part....wine served in baby bottles. I had heard that this was to avoid some type of corkage tax, regardless it was fun! After the dinner, we hit the hay early because of the long journey, but not before I got to eat some authentic kadayif!
Saturday was full day of meandering the Champs de Elysse, posing in front of the Arc de Triomphe and tasting our first french macaroon from a well known bakery/restaurant called "La Duree." We wandered the streets of Paris trying to find Rue Mouffetard, a very quaint and precious French Market. The plaza is full of French artists selling their work, and we were approached several times by artists wanting to sketch our portrait. The market is one of a kind! Full of stores that specialize in cheese, wine, meat, fish, etc. We bought some brie cheese and a couple of baguettes. After we wanted to buy a bottle of wine. We went to the wine shop, and the owner asked to see our cheese, he said that is where the secret lies in selecting a wine, and he recommended us two types, naturally we purchased them both! We took our picnic to the Eiffel Tower. The six of us grabbed a bench and enjoyed our picnic and the fabulous views of the tower, despite the strong winds! As we walked under the tower there was a band jamming to Pink Floyd and people from all over the world there, it was amazing, I don't know how else to put it. Saturday night we fell into our Spanish habits and ate a late dinner, thinking the French go out late also, we found ourselves in the Latin Quarter at 12:20am and no bars that would let us in!
Sunday we marched directly to Notre Dame, we were able to catch a bit of the mass, again an amazing experience. The wind on this day was unreal, almost hard to walk! After Notre Dame, we made our way to The Louvre, finally! We spent over 3 hours there, which still wasn't enough. This museum is a monstrocity! Luckily we got free admission because we had international student ids. I loved the sculptures with all the intricate details down to the veins that run through a man's bicep, they were extraordinay! I was moved by the Venus de Milo. I stood there listening to over 5 different languages being spoken in front of one of the most famous statues in the world, and felt like the world is a beautiful place, I felt content and happy. Of course I saw the Mona Lisa, I had heard many times that it is small and no big deal, so naturally I had low expectations...not true! Still magnificent! I think part of the awe comes from the fact that it is the MONA LISA! Nonetheless, I was in awe. The louvre is such an overwhelming museum that we found it necessary to delight in a chocolate croissant, also magnificent! Sunday evening we ate in a nearby cafe, and afterwards ventured to a famous cafe to have, what is rumored to be the world's best hot chocolate! The restaurant is called "Angelinas," at one time frequented by the likes of Coco Chanel. The hot chocolate was fantastic, as it should be for seven euro! By the time we finished it was dark , and we wanted to catch a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower lit up at night. We found a perfect viewing point right by the Seine River. By this time, the winds were crazy, and it was downpouring, but so worth it. We got great photos of the tower at night and the lights! We tried the Latin Quarter again on Sunday night with more sucess. It is really fun, we went to a few different bars, all of which were themed, and very fun! After my three day love affair with Paris, we had mastered the metro, the food, a few key French phrases, "Je ne parles pa francais." ( I don't speak french) and discovered one of the most outstanding cities in the world!
We jumped right in and explored the surrounding neighborhood of our hostel. The Sacre Cour is a Basilica set on the highest point of the city. The views were truely unbelievable and we managed to catch our first glimpse of the Eiffel tower from there! After the hike up the hill and around the Basilica, we went out for lunch to a small cafe. I had authentic onion soup, that was obviously delish! After we took a small rest in the hostel. The hostel was more like a hotel complete with towel service, maid service, and breakfast every day. Also the staff was knowledgable and helpful! I would recommend it to anyone, Le Regent Montmarte, conveniently located 20 meters from a metro stop. On Saturday night we went to dinner at a restaurant called Le Refuge Fondue. Although we had to wait 2 hours, we occupied ourselves in the surrouding shops and bars by partaking in our first bottle of Bordeaux. The restaurant is a very unique experience. It has only to two long tables lining either wall, with one side of bench seats and the other with chairs. You are seated directly next to the next customer (not uncommon at all in Paris) and to get into the side with the bench seat you have to step on the table...that alone was interesting, but we were in for a surprise! We had fantastic cheese fondue and beef fondue and the best part....wine served in baby bottles. I had heard that this was to avoid some type of corkage tax, regardless it was fun! After the dinner, we hit the hay early because of the long journey, but not before I got to eat some authentic kadayif!
Saturday was full day of meandering the Champs de Elysse, posing in front of the Arc de Triomphe and tasting our first french macaroon from a well known bakery/restaurant called "La Duree." We wandered the streets of Paris trying to find Rue Mouffetard, a very quaint and precious French Market. The plaza is full of French artists selling their work, and we were approached several times by artists wanting to sketch our portrait. The market is one of a kind! Full of stores that specialize in cheese, wine, meat, fish, etc. We bought some brie cheese and a couple of baguettes. After we wanted to buy a bottle of wine. We went to the wine shop, and the owner asked to see our cheese, he said that is where the secret lies in selecting a wine, and he recommended us two types, naturally we purchased them both! We took our picnic to the Eiffel Tower. The six of us grabbed a bench and enjoyed our picnic and the fabulous views of the tower, despite the strong winds! As we walked under the tower there was a band jamming to Pink Floyd and people from all over the world there, it was amazing, I don't know how else to put it. Saturday night we fell into our Spanish habits and ate a late dinner, thinking the French go out late also, we found ourselves in the Latin Quarter at 12:20am and no bars that would let us in!
Sunday we marched directly to Notre Dame, we were able to catch a bit of the mass, again an amazing experience. The wind on this day was unreal, almost hard to walk! After Notre Dame, we made our way to The Louvre, finally! We spent over 3 hours there, which still wasn't enough. This museum is a monstrocity! Luckily we got free admission because we had international student ids. I loved the sculptures with all the intricate details down to the veins that run through a man's bicep, they were extraordinay! I was moved by the Venus de Milo. I stood there listening to over 5 different languages being spoken in front of one of the most famous statues in the world, and felt like the world is a beautiful place, I felt content and happy. Of course I saw the Mona Lisa, I had heard many times that it is small and no big deal, so naturally I had low expectations...not true! Still magnificent! I think part of the awe comes from the fact that it is the MONA LISA! Nonetheless, I was in awe. The louvre is such an overwhelming museum that we found it necessary to delight in a chocolate croissant, also magnificent! Sunday evening we ate in a nearby cafe, and afterwards ventured to a famous cafe to have, what is rumored to be the world's best hot chocolate! The restaurant is called "Angelinas," at one time frequented by the likes of Coco Chanel. The hot chocolate was fantastic, as it should be for seven euro! By the time we finished it was dark , and we wanted to catch a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower lit up at night. We found a perfect viewing point right by the Seine River. By this time, the winds were crazy, and it was downpouring, but so worth it. We got great photos of the tower at night and the lights! We tried the Latin Quarter again on Sunday night with more sucess. It is really fun, we went to a few different bars, all of which were themed, and very fun! After my three day love affair with Paris, we had mastered the metro, the food, a few key French phrases, "Je ne parles pa francais." ( I don't speak french) and discovered one of the most outstanding cities in the world!
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